The Complete Mikimoto Pearl Jewelry Guide Complete Guide to buying Mikimoto Pearls.
Why pay more for Mikimoto pearls? What are the qualities to look for in pearls? What distinguishes Mikimoto akoya salt-water pearls from others? Finally, Myths and legends, caring for your pearls, and the common Mikimoto brand names in exported and domestic brand Mikimoto pearls.
Akoya pearls
",Akoya", is the generic Japanese terminology for a akoya oyster saltwater pearl found only in Japan and is not synonymous with Mikimoto. It wasn’t until Mikimoto America clamped down on the sellers from China using the Mikimoto name on non- branded pearls late in 2006. Fortunately, the flood of such auctions has ended, but the occasional seller persists.
Mikimoto quality?
Although it is now not common, the misleading label of ",Mikimoto quality", eBay auction still comes up from time to time. There is only one quality of Mikimoto pearl: those cultivated under a strict patented process in the bays of Ise, Honshu Japan. A tiny island off the Ise coast purchased by Mikimoto in the 1930`s has become a part of the rich international legacy of the name.
Pearl grading:
Mikimoto uses a widely copied grading method independent of GIA grading standards. There are four grades, AAA being the highest quality. There are also four sub-grades with AAA1, etc. The 1 represents a slightly more blemished surface. The highest grades have a ",mirror like ", reflection the lower grades a ",good clear ", reflection. Most buyers in Japan, myself included, who are not jewelers, appraisers or very wealthy are unaware of, nor require the exact grade of the pearls they purchase from Mikimoto. Buyers in general purchase grading or replacement valuation certification for insurance purposes, not to resell, so caution is warranted when such certification is included.
Hanadama Pearls
Hanadama pearls supposedly rate higher in quality than the standard GIA triple A Akoya pearls according to the Japan Pearl Science Laboratory (JPSL) in Tokyo. Pearl necklaces cannot be referred to as Hanadama unless accompanied by JPSL certification, and currently sell at a premium in price over similarly sized Mikimoto top grade pearl strands. A word of caution is advised here as this grading and certification is a relatively new grading standard, especially in reference to Mikimoto pearls. I am currently researching for a future reference guide.
Distinguishing the real thing
How can a Mikimoto buyer distinguish true high-grade pearls from cheaper freshwater, imitation, or other akoya pearls? Under microscopic magnification, a unique pattern of lines, or roadmap as it referred to, becomes apparent. All authentic Mikimoto pearls have a distinguished roadmap pattern that experienced pearl jewelers will recognize. Unfortunately, even if the piece is marked, it only guarantees the settings not the pearls. Replacement clasps in necklaces, which can rather easily be re-knotted, occasionally crop up from unscrupulous dealers. However, like most of us who are not dealers, there is an easier way. That very slight rose tint, pink or undertone, will not be found in 95% of any other Akoya pearl. This is the most important point for novice or other first time buyers to watch for.
Other cautions: fake clasps
There is a black market for Mikimoto clasps for several reasons. The original piece could be broken, damaged, imitation, stolen or from old small bracelets etc. You get a $10.00 Chinese pearl necklace, put a real or fake Mikimoto clasp on it and sell it for a $1,000 or more. Mikimoto pearls themselves are the best documentation. When you learn to appreciate the difference, they are instantly recognizable from most other pearls.
Background
It used to be very rare to find pearls over 6mm until Kokichi Mikimoto refined and developed the art of pearl culture. Now, all have the opportunity to appreciate high quality pearls of all sizes and colors.
The pearl is the birthstone for the month of June. And in the West, as the expression June Bride indicates, June is considered to be the best month for a wedding. It is no coincidence that the pearl is known as the gem of brides, which, if worn of the wedding day, is believed to bring future happiness.
Mikimoto, one of the most experienced creators of jewelry, with a long tradition of distinction, gained its well-deserved reputation through paying fine attention to detail. Each item of jewelry is designed to meet the wearer’s complete satisfaction and for these reasons, highly appreciated throughout the world. Among the many fans have included: the Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, the Imperial Families of Japan and the United Kingdom, and many other celebrities and dignitaries.
Myths and Legends of the Pearl
According to ancient Sanskrit books, oysters were said to open in the morning to imbibe the dewdrops, which were transformed through air and sunlight into pearls. If the air and light were not just right, the pearls would be faulty. In Roman times, it was discovered that pearls dissolved in wine have a most exquisite flavor. Cleopatra is reputed to have swallowed a pearl of fabulous value. In 1669, the famous chemist Dr. Schroder wrote (in Latin) that pearls ",are an excellent cordial, that strengthens the balsam of life, resists poison, pestilence and putrefaction, and clears the spirits, and they are so famous that men in the greatest agonies are refreshed thereby", In China, pearls are ground into powder as a cure for irritability, and as a charm against pestilence.
Discerning a pearl`s quality: Five distinctions.
1) Luster
This is the most important feature of the pearl. As the number of pearl layers increases the deeper in tone the luster becomes. If you compare two or three pearls of varying luster, you can see the difference in quality.
2) Color
Quality is also graded by clearness of color. Distinctive color is proof of high quality. Pearls have a wide variety of color although the difference in shade is very subtle. Colors are broadly categorized as pink, white, silver white, creamy white, gold, blue and black.
3) Shape
Generally speaking, the more perfectly round the shape of the pearl the better it is. However, pearl oysters rarely produce pearls, which are perfectly round. Often they are flat or irregular in shape. Even those with a perfect shape are not necessarily of a high quality in color or luster. Mikimoto discards all low-grade pearls keeping only those of the highest quality. Less than five out of a hundred are considered worthy of the name of Mikimoto.
4) Size
The larger the size of the pearl, the higher its value since it is difficult to cultivate a pearl of more than 9mm in diameter within the shell of a pearl oyster. Popular uniform necklace lengths with pearls of approximately the same size: Choker 14- 16 inches Princess: 17 -19 inches Matinee: 20 -24 inches Opera 30 -36 inches Rope: over 36 inches.
5) Flaws
Pearls are not artificial products but are products of nature. Therefore a pearl will often have a minor flaw (or sometimes referred to as variole in pearl jewelry), on its surface like any other natural gemstone. Mikimoto pearls are carefully chosen after a strict examination of natural blemishes.
6) Nacre
Oops that`s six, but its not really a distinction in addition to the previous five above since the only way to really tell if a particular pearl has a thick or flimsy nacre is to cut it in half or to tell how exquisite the red wine has become after the pearl has been dissolved in it.
Caring for your pearl jewelry
Because pearls are organic, they are affected by conditions of their environment. Excessive heat or open flame can cause a pearl to brown, split, crack and burn. Even dry air will cause a pearl to dehydrate and the nacre to crack. Acids will corrode as well as harmful gasses. When worn on the body regularly, pearls are lubricated by natural body oils, which help them retain their reflective qualities. When stored too long, they turn dull as if responding to neglect. Remove any pearl jewelry you wear when you may expose to acidic chemicals. It is a good idea to have your Mikimoto jewelry checked at the nearest Mikimoto store at least once every two to five years.
",M", in the Shell Symbol
Most Mikimoto jewelry creations have an ",M", in the shell Mon or symbol which is stamped on the setting. This is a quality guarantee mark by which the jewelry is proven to be among the best in the world. Mikimoto is responsible for any jewelry design creation carrying this mark for the lifetime following its purchase.
Japanese and International Mikimoto brand names:
There are 5 common U.S. Mikimoto lines in total. They go in this order: Mikimoto (The highest quality line), Blue Lagoon, Gordon's Classic collection (this line is only available in 'Gordon's Jewelers'), Sea Magic (available at chain-jewelry stores in malls), Zales Signature Collection (available in Zales Jewelry stores). These are all exclusive lines distributed by Mikimoto. They should not be confused with Mikimoto brand pearls. These lines represent high quality pearls at a good value, although they do not meet the Mikimoto brand control standards, the pearls still have good luster and value. Markings of ",S", (purposely mislabeled as platinum), ",SIL",, ",14K",, ",585", and ",750", are Mikimoto export items.
In Japan there are five common Mikimoto lines: Mikimoto, (as in the U.S. the highest quality line), Mikimoto Pearl Island, (selected boutiques using Mikimoto pearls in outsourced settings), Perlita, (exclusive to selected boutiques and becoming harder to find), Mikimoto Gift Selection, (Mikimoto brand name packaging in non trademarked jewelry settings and value grade pearls), and Mikimoto International, (design accessories such as clocks, watches, photo frames, bookmarkers and other non jewelry related items). It is also important to note that independent jewelers in Japan use Mikimoto wholesale lot pearls in very fine quality non-trademarked pieces. Markings of ",18k",, ",950", (silver), and ",pt950",, ",pt850", is the standard used by the finest jewelry made in Japan.
A final word about Mikimoto ring sizes, resizing and values
Virtually all Mikimoto rings sold in Japan would be in the U.S. size 3 to 6 ranges, 18 caret gold or platinum, and most likely would have to be resized for sale outside Japan. This keeps these Mikimoto, Japan ring values lower, especially in the 3 to 4 sizes, which would be too petite to wear for most adults in the U.S and Europe.
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